“Sitting alone, as much above and half below the water, watching his hand like a spider on a sheet of glass, he looked into his own eyes and was young again. He felt himself turning as he once had to scan the horizon – impatient, hopeful. And then he saw the wave. Not just any wave, but the wave he’d been waiting for.” – ‘The Touch’

“That era will be lost. Those people forgotten. Kind of like the waves themselves. They come out of nowhere, exist for a moment in perfect splendor and a moment later, whether you ride them or not, they’re gone without a trace.”  – ‘Reflections’

“Your senses come alive. The sound of the water. The feel of the wind. The look of the wave face rising ahead of you. LordGodAlmighty bless Neptune and all his friends in the pantheon — you are surfing!”  – ‘Surfing Is Too Easy’